Official Name Republic of Estonia
Capital City Tallinn
Population 1,341,664
Language Estonian (official), Russian, Ukrainian, Finnish, other
Time Zone GMT+2 in winter and GMT+3 in summer
Independence 20 August 1991 (from Soviet Union)
National Holiday Independence Day, 24 February (1918); note - 24 February 1918
is the date Estonia declared its independence from Soviet Russia; 20 August
1991 is the date it declared its independence from the Soviet Union
Currency
Summer Temp:17º C
Winter Temp:-4 º C
Ethnic Groups Estonian 65.3%, Russian 28.1%, Ukrainian 2.5%, Belarusian 1.5%,
Finn 1%, other 1.6% (1998)
Religions Evangelical Lutheran, Russian Orthodox, Estonian Orthodox, Baptist,
Methodist, Seventh-Day Adventist, Roman Catholic, Pentecostal, Word of Life,
Jewish
Location: Eastern Europe, bordering the Baltic Sea and Gulf of Finland, between
Latvia and Russia
Area:
total: 45,226 sq km
land: 43,211 sq km
water: 2,015 sq km
note: includes 1,520 islands in the Baltic Sea
Land boundaries:
total: 633 km
border countries: Latvia 339 km, Russia 294 km
Coastline: 3,794 km
Climate: maritime, wet, moderate winters, cool summers
Terrain: marshy, lowlands
Elevation extremes:
lowest point: Baltic Sea 0 m
highest point: Suur Munamagi 318 m
Natural resources: shale oil (kukersite), peat, phosphorite, amber, cambrian
blue clay, limestone, dolomite, arable land
Natural hazards: flooding occurs frequently in the spring
After centuries of Danish, Swedish, German, and Russian rule, Estonia attained
independence in 1918. Forcibly incorporated into the USSR in 1940, it regained
its freedom in 1991, with the collapse of the Soviet Union. Since the last Russian
troops left in 1994, Estonia has been free to promote economic and political
ties with Western Europe. It joined both NATO and the EU in the spring of 2004.
History
First settlements in Estonia date back to at least 11000 years. It is hard to
find in Europe another nation besides Estonians who have stayed as long in one
place.
In 1154, Estonia was depicted on a map of the world for the first time. However,
as early as in the 1st century AD, the Roman historian Tacitus mentions people
called Aestii, probably the forebears of the Estonians
From the13th century Estonia was divided between several foreign
powers. The local branch of the Teutonic Order was the most powerful among them.
Although the country, which was conquered by fire and sword, was dedicated to
the Virgin Mary, there was not much brotherly love between either the foreigners,
or towards the indigenous population.
For the next 350 years the country was subjected to foreign powers which were
constantly feuding. Yet, the trading towns flourished, as many Estonian towns
belonged to the Hanseatic League that controlled most of the trade in the Baltic
regions since the 14th century.
In addition to fighting among themselves, the foreign rulers of the country
become more and more worried by the eastern neighbour, who started to increasingly
look westwards. The River Narva not only separated the two political powers,
but also was a border between Eastern and Western Christianity.
The Lutheran Reformation shook the country to its foundations. Nevertheless,
the Reformation at last turned the eyes of the rulers towards the native population
- the Estonians. The first printed book in Estonian was published in 1535 at
the latest.
Between 1558 and 1581 the Livonian War was fought between Denmark, Russia, Sweden
and Poland, the main prize being Estonia. Sweden came out as winner.
Estonia bloomed under Swedish rule, as opposed to the reign of other rulers.
In 1632 a university was founded in Tartu.
But Sweden too was unable to resist the pressure from the east. Russia needed
'a window on the West' which was cut through during the Great Northern War,
1700-21. Now Estonians had to obey the Tsar's officials in addition to local
landlords.
Encouraged by a rich folklore and by the example of the Finns who spoke a language
related to Estonian, those few intellectuals who were of Estonian descent, decided
to erect a monument to their people. They were prompted by the Finnish epic
Kalevala, on the model of which the Estonian epic Kalevipoeg was written and
published in 1862.
However, the whole nation started to become more and more aware of itself during
the 19th century. 'The people of the country', as they had termed themselves,
became Estonians. Thriving societies and the new tradition of song festivals,
which started in 1869, strengthened the sense of unity.
The young patriots were enthusiastic and idealistic. But it is unlikely that,
at the end of the 19th century, they could dream of the banner of the Estonian
Student Society becoming the proud national flag.
At the end of World War I, when the disintegration of the Tsarist Empire became
predictable, an opportunity to establish an independent Estonian state arose.
Estonians had to fight for their freedom rifle in hand against both the Red
Army and the Landeswehr, a Baltic German militia. But there were people who
offered help: Estonians fought side by side with volunteers from Finland, Denmark
and Baltic Germans who supported Estonian independence.
After long and hard negotiations, Soviet Russia finally recognised the independence
of Estonia in 1920.
The Tartu Peace Treaty was signed on the 2 February 1920.
Many were surprised by the rapid developments in the young republic. The economy
was successfully reoriented from the Russian to the European markets. But most
of all, Estonian cultural and educational life flourished.
For a small nation it may be difficult to live between larger nations who have
the habit of making deals. The pact between the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany
in 1939 determined Estonian history for decades. Estonia was occupied and annexed
a year later.
World War II crippled Estonia. A year of Soviet rule was followed by the Nazi
invasion in 1941. Many died in the war, and tens of thousands preferred to flee
abroad in 1943-44 in fear of a new Soviet occupation.
Decades of occupation were a hard trial for Estonia. But no empire lasts forever.
In the late 1980s, Estonians, Latvians and Lithuanians joined hands to show
the world their will to live in freedom and restore the independence.
Neither political pressure nor even guns could stop people from making their
dreams real. During the attempted reactionary coup, Estonia declared the restoration
of independence on the 20 August 1991.
The whole world recognised the will of its people to be free. Once again, Estonia
is an equal and independent member of the family of nations.
A year later, a new democratic constitution was introduced, and the first parliamentary
and presidential elections during the new independence were held. In June 1992,
a currency reform was carried through establishing the foundations for successful
economical reforms.
Getting There
There are flights between Tallinn and Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Kiev,
London, Minsk and Stockholm. Tallinn airport is 3km (2mi) southeast of the city
centre. There are no departure taxes when leaving Estonia.
The bus is the cheapest mode of transport to and from Estonia, and Eurolines links Tallinn with western and Scandinavian Europe. While public buses get priority over private vehicles at border crossings, Estonian border guards take perverse pleasure in not only stamping every Western passport but also inviting travellers to their offices so they can key your passport data into their computers.
A train runs each night between Tallin and Moscow.
The number of ferries servicing the region has mushroomed since 1990, enabling travellers to sail directly between Estonia and Finland, Sweden or Germany. A fleet of varied shapes and sizes now ferries 2 million passengers a year across the Gulf of Finland between Helsinki and Tallinn.
Saaremaa
Estonia's biggest island has always had an independent streak and was usually
the last part of the country to fall to invaders. Just a few kilometres south
of Hiiumaa, Saaremaa is a thinly populated place of unspoiled rural landscapes.
Farmsteads nestle among forests that cover half the island.
Kuressaare Castle
This is the best preserved castle in the Baltics and the only medieval stone
castle in the region that has remained intact. The inside of the castle is a
warren of chambers, halls, passages and stairways that will feed anyone's fantasies
about Gothic fortresses. It also houses the intriguing Saaremaa Regional Museum.
Sorve Peninsula
Small cliffs rear up along the west coast of the 32km (19mi) south0western Sõrve
Peninsula. This is where the island's magic can really be felt. A bike or car
trip along the coastline will expose you to some fabulous views. This sparsely
populated strip of land saw some of the heaviest fighting of WWII, and some
of the scars remain.
Vilsandi National Park
Vilsandi, 6km (4mi) long and in places up to 3km (2mi) wide, is a low, wooded
island, the largest of 161 covering an area of 18,155ha forming the Vilsandi
National Park off Saaremaa's west coast. One of the island's highlights is a
working ostrich farm. Early May to mid-June is the best time for visiting -
there's a ferry from Papisaare.
Tallinn
There are few places in Europe where the aura of the 14th and 15th centuries
survives intact the way it does in Tallinn's Old Town, a jumble of medieval
walls and turrets, needling spires and winding, cobbled streets. Nevertheless,
Estonia's capital is so modern it's been dubbed 'a suburb of Helsinki'.
Lower Town
This area is one of the best preserved old towns in Europe and the authorities
are continuing its rehabilitation after years of neglect. The "must see"
sights include Raekoja plats (Town Hall square), the town walls and towers (notably
"Fat Margaret" and "Kiek in de Kök") and St Olaf church
tower (124 metres).
The area of Toompea is home to a bevy of fascinating sights
including the 19th-century Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral; Toomkirik,
the Lutheran cathedral founded in 1233; the Estonian Art Museum; and the kookily
named Kiek-in-de-Kök.
Kiek-in-de-Kök
One of Tallinn's most formidable cannon towers is the tall, stout Kiek-in-de-Kök.
Its name is Low German for 'Peep into the Kitchen'; from the upper floors lonely
soldiers could peer into the houses of the Lower Town.
Built in about 1475, Kiek-in-de-Kök was badly damaged during the Livonian
war, but it never collapsed (nine of Ivan the Terrible's cannon balls remain
imbedded in the walls). Today it houses a museum tracing the birth and development
of Tallinn with several floors of maps, weapons and models of the old city.
Peter the Great Home Museum
In Kadriorg Park, behind the Kadriorg Palace is the cottage Peter the Great
occupied on visits to Tallinn while the palace was being built. Today it houses
the Peter the Great Home Museum where you may examine his clothes and the boots
he made. There's also a small collection of 18th-century furnishings.
Kadriorg park is pleasant and wooded, with oak, lilac and horse chestnut trees.
It has long been city residents' favourite strolling grounds. Weekends are especially
popular among cyclists, sun-tanners and leisure-seekers but the park is so spacious
it never feels crowded.
Together with the baroque Kadriorg Palace, which lies at its heart, it was designed
for the Russian tsar, Peter the Great, by the Italian Niccolo Michetti, soon
after Peter's conquest of Estonia in the Great Northern War.
Toomkirik
Estonia's oldest church, Dome Church (Toomkirik) was founded in the early 13th
century by the earliest Danish conquerors of the region. It stands on Toompea
hill which, with its fine views over the town and harbour, became the birthplace
of Tallinn when the German Knights of the Sword built a fortress here around
1230.
Incidentally, the hill is also sacred to native Estonians, who consider it the
legendary burial mound of Kalev, the heroic first leader of the Estonians. Although
the site of the church was first consecrated in 1240, the edifice of this magnificent
Lutheran cathedral church dates from the 15th and 17th centuries, with the tower
added in 1779.
Among other things, the church was a burial ground for the rich and noble. The
finest of the carved tombs inside are those on the right as you approach the
altar, including life-size figures of the 16th- century Swedish commander, Pontus
de la Gardie, and his wife. The Swedish siege of Narva, where de la Gardie died,
is shown on the side of their sarcophagus. The marble Greek temple-style sarcophagus
belongs to Admiral Samuel Greigh, an 18th-century Scot who joined the Russian
navy and became a hero of Russo-Turkish sea battles. Admiral Adam Johann von
Krusenstern, a German Estonian who was the first Russian citizen to sail around
the world, has another elaborate tomb.
Architecture & Arts Centre of Estonia
East of the Old Town, lies this beautifully restored limestone warehouse that
once served as the city's saltcellar. Today, the Rotterman Salt Storage as it
is known, houses in its massive space the Estonian Museum of Architecture, with
its permanent architecture exhibitions.
More interesting for sure is the incredible array of temporary exhibitions -
often the city's best - held here throughout the year.
Naissaar
Naissaar, at 44 sq km, has a lively history, thick forests (covering 85% of
the island), and even a boulder with a circumference of nearly 27m! There's
a 19th-century cemetery for English sailors from the Crimean and Russo-Swedish
wars, which attests to the island's military history.
In fact, Naissaar has been a bulwark for defending the capital since the Great
Northern War. A railway was even built before WWI for a speedier build-up of
armaments. Curiously, from 1917 to 1918, tsarist troops took the island and
tried to form their own government. Soviet military traces remain (the island
was closed until 1995), with an old army village, gun batteries, empty mines
and deep-sea mine anchors. There are dreamy stretches of unblemished beach and
two nature trails: south takes you to historical sights, such as memorials,
military ruins, a wooden church from 1856, a cemetery for English sailors from
the Crimean (1854-55) and Russo-Swedish (1808-09) wars; north leads through
forests, mires and past large 'erratic' boulders. Just up the hill from the
dock is the Nature Park Centre where you can get lots of info, a warming coffee
and a meal.
To get there, MS Monika departs from Tallinn's Linnahall Terminal, twice daily
on Saturdays and Sundays only. If you're day-tripping, you'll have five hours
on the island.
Tartu
Situated at the edge of southern Estonia on the beautiful Emajõgi river,
Tartu, Estonia’s second largest city, has a special and romantic feel
to it. First mentioned in the 7th Century, Tartu is in fact the oldest city
in Estonia. Much of it burnt down in the great fire of 1775, but it seems like
every time a shovel breaks the dirt, Tartu’s history surfaces once again.
Just behind the Town Hall building is an archeological dig. The site has unearthed
some pretty exciting things: in a 600-year-old outhouse at the site, archeologists
have discovered Europe’s oldest playable woodwind flute.
Otepää. Dubbed Estonia's 'Winter Capital', this town of 2,200 located
43 km southwest of Tartu is ringed with downhill ski resorts - something of
a rarity in this somewhat flat nation. It's also the centre of annual ski events
as Tartu Marathon, and the Otepää Games held in March. The town itself,
with its historic church, smart hotels and quirky pubs, is the perfect place
to relax with a cup of hot chocolate after a day on the slopes.
A wide stretch of white sand beach, a magnificent, historic town centre, vast,
leafy park areas and quiet streets lined with early-20th-century villas –
with all this going for it, it’s no wonder that Pärnu, Estonia’s
‘Summer Capital’, attracts so many thousands of visitors each year.
Even as far back as the 1830s, Europeans were flocking to this resort town to
unwind, taking one of the popular mud cures or just playing in the warm waters
of Pärnu Bay.
Pärnu
Nowadays visitors are just as likely to come for a rock concert or one of the
high-energy festivals packed into the town’s busy summer event calendar.
But that’s only a small taste of what Pärnu has to offer. The town’s
long list of diversions includes everything from rollerskating to kayaking to
hot nightclubs. Of course, in summer the beach itself is still Pärnu’s
main attraction, and this year it’ll be made even more special with the
addition of a brand new, 500m promenade.
Haapsalu
If you’re looking for perfect day trip or weekend getaway, you’ll
find it in Haapsalu. A mere 99km from Tallinn, this quiet seaside town of just
under 12,000 is steeped in history, filled with quaint, wooden houses, and it
even has its own beach. It’s no wonder that visitors of one sort or another
have been coming here since the 13th Century, when the Episcopal Castle (now
one of the town’s main attractions) was built. Most of the castle was
pulled down by Peter the Great in 1715, but that certainly wasn’t the
end of Haapsalu’s story. In the early 1800’s, Dr. Carl Abraham Hunnius
discovered the curative properties of the local sea mud, and the town’s
new role as a resort destination was sealed. In 1825 the first spa opened in
Haapsalu, and pretty soon everyone from Tsaikovsky to the Tsar and his family
were coming here to take the cures. This year Haapsalu celebrates its 180th
anniversary as a resort town – an industry that’s still going strong.
After doing your sightseeing you can contact the spa resorts listed here and
make an appointment to get slathered in mud, or simply go for an aromatic massage.
Haapsalu is 99km south-west of the capital. Buses from Tallinn leave roughly
every hour, and the trip takes one hour and 40 minutes.
If there’s one city in Estonia that gives off a truly different vibe than
the rest of the country, it’s Narva. Sitting at the EU’s border
with Russia, 212km east of Tallinn, this city of 67,000 is geographically closer
to St. Petersburg than it is to Estonia’s capital, and it pulses with
the energy of travellers making their way across the Friendship Bridge, leading
to Ivangorod on the Russian side of the Narva River. Indeed the city’s
skyline is defined by the imposing Narva and Ivangorod castles, which face one
another across this historic river border, creating an unforgettable image of
the frontier between East and West.
Narva
Narva’s role as a border town is nothing new. Since it was founded by
the Danes in the 13th century, it has often found itself at the edge of empires.
During its heyday, i.e. Estonia’s 16th and 17th-century period of Swedish
rule, Narva grew wealthy as a key port and merchant town and quickly developed
into one of the most charming cities in the Baltic region. Sadly, Narva’s
Old Town was almost completely levelled during World War II, but there are still
enough interesting remnants of the city’s historic past to pique any visitor’s
interest. What’s more, with a population that’s 96% Russian-speaking,
modern Narva has a distinctive cultural identity - another addition to the list
of differences that make Narva a worthy weekend getaway.
A bit futher out from Kadriorg is another district that provides an escape from
the downtown bustle - Pirita. The sprawling district is actually within Tallinn’s
boundaries, only a 10 - 15 minute ride from the city centre. When you get here
though, you’d never believe you were in the same universe as the rest
of Tallinn; suddenly you’re surrounded by dense forest, fresh air and,
best of all, the blissful sound of silence.
When most Tallinners think of Pirita, they think of the popular beach, which
can get packed with thousands of bodies on any sunny weekend. But there’s
much more to Pirita than sand, surf and peaceful greenery.
The region has a history that goes back at least as far as the early 15th century,
when the now-famous convent was founded on the banks of the Pirita River in
the early 15th century. Pirita stayed fairly rural through the centuries, but
after World War II, partitions of land were given out to Estonians to build
homes on, and Pirita began to evolve into the residential district it is today.
The 1980 Moscow Olympics also had a major impact on the region. When Pirita
was to host the yachting events, image-conscience Soviet authorities built the
entire coastal Pirita highway, the TV Tower, an extensive beach house and the
Olympic Yachting Centre for the occasion. Nowadays a different kind of construction
boom is underway here: Pirita has become one of the most popular places for
Tallinn’s affluent to build new homes.
For visitors though, Pirita’s attraction is still its nature, recreation
opportunities, some fascinating historic sights and a couple grand, Soviet relics.
Pirita Beach
Without a doubt, Pirita’s star attraction is its 3km-long, white sand
beach. All the usual tanning, flirting, volleyball and other activity you’d
find at any beach in the world you’ll find here too. But Pirita’s
beach also has an extensive, park that fills the area between the highway and
the beach itself. This densely forested area is criss-crossed by paved trails
(perfect for biking and roller-skating), and dotted with benches and children’s
playgrounds. On the south end of the beach, you can play mini-golf, and sometimes
find a couple carnival-type activities. The Beach House itself is home to a
bowling alley and a couple of snack bars.
St. Bridget’s Convent Ruins (Pirita klooster)
A towering, gabled facade poking through the trees is the first thing you notice
when you arrive in Pirita. This is part of the fascinating ruins of St. Bridget’s
convent, which was founded in 1407 by the Swedish St. Bridgettine Order. It
crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted
off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the
walls of the main church, several foundations, cellars, and a newer cemetery.
Pirita River Boat Rental
The Pirita River winds through the beautiful, marshy area behind the convent,
creating some of the most striking scenery in Tallinn. The best way to explore
this protected nature area is to take a leisurely trip down the river itself.
On the riverbank, just north of the bridge, you’ll see a shack labelled
Paadilaenutus which rents out various types of boats.
Tallinn Olympic Yachting Centre
The most prominent leftover of Pirita’s Olympic past is its Olympic Yachting
Centre, still an active part of life in Pirita. The imposing building itself,
built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics, is a fascinating exampleof Soviet architecture.
Nearby you can also see the stand for the Olympic flame, as well as the Olympic
rings. A visit to the complex is worthwhile, even if just to stroll along the
water, inspect the yachts, and have lunch in one of the outdoor cafés
that operates here. Of course, you can also park your yacht here, if you happened
to bring it with you.
Tallinn Botanic Garden (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)
With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a wellkept
secret. There are around 8,000 species, with hothouse displays of tropical,
subtropical and desert plants.
Metsakalmistu Cemetery
Tallinn’s most famous cemetery, Metsakalmistu was officially opened in
1939. Among its most famous permanent guests are Estonia’s first president,
Konstantin Päts, writers Lydia Koidula and Anton-Hansen Tammsaare, chess
player Paul Keres, composer Raimond Valgre and singer Georg Ots. Even if you
don’t visit these celebrity graves, a stroll through the rest of the cemetery
is still a fascinating and peaceful experience.
Tallinn TV Tower Kloostrimetsa.
This space-age-looking TV Tower looks all the more out of place poking out of
a serene, Kloostrimetsa forest. The 314m tower (still the tallest structure
in Tallinn) opened in 1980 just in time for the Olympic games, and was evidently
built to impress. The real treat here though is the view from the observation
deck at the 170m level. An amazing panorama of Pirita and the rest of Tallinn
open up from here.
There are plenty of sporty and adventurous things to do in Pirita. Besides beach
volleyball, mini-golf and rowing in the Pirita River are Biking, Bowling, Parasailing,
Roller-skating and Windsurfing.
Paldiski
If you’re looking for a day trip that’s… well… different,
then Paldiski’s your place. Before 1994, this little port town was a busy
Soviet military base, home to nuclear rockets and submarines, and at one point,
16,000 military personnel. After the military had gone, the population was drastically
reduced (now hovering at about 4,200) and Paldiski descended into a nightmarish
state of decay.
When the Swedish creators of the dark film “Lilya 4-Ever” were looking
for a generically depressing post-Soviet setting, they picked Paldiski. None
of this sounds like a good reason to go, but it is. Combine the forlorn look
of the emptied apartment blocks with the hulking remains of Soviet military
infrastructure, and you’ve got a fascinating spectacle. Additionally,
you can see how Paldiski is now finally coming around, with new investments
and development, particularly in its port area. And there’s another reason
to make the trip - the Pakri peninsula on which it sits is home to some beautiful
natural scenery.
Paldiski is on a peninsula, 49 miles by road from Tallinn.
Paldiski Historic sights
Peter’s Fortress
When Peter the Great established his new port in 1718, he wanted it be the biggest
and most secure of the empire. Work began on a fivepointed fortress and a breakwater
out to the nearby Pakri islands. Due to the difficulty of cutting through limestone,
it was still not finished when he died, and the project was abandoned. Still,
it gained a gruesome reputation - so many forced labourers were used in its
construction that it earned the nickname Siberia II. Its deep moats and walls
are visible from Salavat Julajevi street, just past the north edge of town.
Churches
Paldiski is not without its spiritual side. On Pakri street you can see the
partially restored, stone St. George Orthodox Church, built in 1787. A couple
hundred metres north is the Lutheran St. Nicholas Church (1842). It is topped
with a square tower and is much farther along in its restoration.
Train Station
Opened in 1870, the same year the railroad came to Tallinn, this elegant, lacey,
wooden building is a testament to the port’s important place in pre-revolu
tionary Russia. It is undergoing remodeling.
Pakri lighthouse
Standing at 52m, Pakri lighthouse is Estonia’s tallest. It was dates to
1889. While you can’t tour the inside, you can still see impressive views
of the nearby Pakri Islands from its base. Find it at the tip of the peninsula.
Cemeteries
Find two cemeteries, one Lutheran, one Orthodox, to the left as you enter town.
The Lutheran one is charmingly creepy, with piles of fallen grave markers from
the 19th century. The newer Orthodox version has a memorial to the submariners
lost in the M-200 accident
Soviet artefacts
Ruins
It’s hard to say where to begin. The entire peninsula is covered in abandoned
bunkers, piles of unidentifiable junk and varied military debris. Even downtown
you’ll find whole apartment blocks that have been written off. Along the
left side of the road as you head from the town to the end of the peninsula,
you can see where one of the locals has helpfully painted ‘Welcome to
Hell’ on one of the dilapidated structures.
The Pentagon
The largest Soviet submarine training center in the USSR, this massive structure
just inside town is actually shaped, vaguely, like a submarine. Due to i‘ts
size and function, it has long been nicknamed ‘The Pentagon.’ After
it was left by the Russian military, and subsequently stripped of all useful
material by locals, it was the target if teenaged rock throwers until someone
thought to seal up the window holes. It can only be viewed from the outside,
which might be a good thing.
Experimental reactor
Smack dab in the middle of the peninsula is an experimental reactor that was
probably the most secret installation here during Paldiski’s time as a
Soviet base. Built 1965 – 68, this ‘nuclear-powered submarine exercise
complex’ had two reactors and was big enough to accommodate a large submarine.
The imposing walls and guard towers are still visible.
Submariners’ graveyard
On November 21, 1956, 29 crewmembers of the submarine ‘M-200’ died
when their boat accidentally collided with a mine ship. The affair was so embarrassing
for authorities that it was never officially acknowledged and the men were buried
in secret, in a wooded area near the Lõunasadam (South Port), about 50
or 60m from the sea. The spot, if you can find it, might still have some odd
grave markers. The men have since been reburied, and there is a memorial to
them in the Orthodox cemetery.
Nature
This peninsula is famous for its spectacular limestone cliffs. Head to the Uuga
limestone bank on the west side of the peninsula’s tip, where stairs give
you a good view of the various rock strata (helpfully labelled). Then make your
way to the point, where there’s a viewing platform, and try to get a look
at the rare black guillemots, which look like little penguins.
On the east side you can find the Leeste limestone bank. Returning south along
this same shore you come to a giant boulder in the sea called Saunakivi, and
three waterfalls, the Valli, Raja and Kersalu.
History
Though ancient tribes had settled in this area sometime in the first millennium,
it was the Swedes who put this settlement on the map when they established the
port of Rogerwiek in the 17th century. After the Northern War, Estonia was in
the hands of Russia, and in 1718, Peter the Great picked this as the site for
a deep-water port. Work on a fortress began. Named ‘Baltiiskii Port’
in 1762, it grew in importance to the Russian empire, at one point was the third
busiest in the realm. ‘Paldiski’, the Estonian-ised pronunciation
of ‘Baltiiskii’, became its official name in 1933, but in 1939 it
was handed over to the USSR and became a naval base. Its status grew more secret
in 1962 when Paldiski became a training centre for nuclear submarine crews.
From then until 1994, it was literally closed off with barbed wire from the
surrounding territory. After the USSR’s collapse, a negotiated Russian
troop pull-out finally ended the military presence here in August 1994, with
some work continuing for another year. Later investment has established a modern
cargo port as well as a Tallinn car-ferry to Sweden.
Food
For a lot of foreign visitors, traditional Estonian food can be, frankly, daunting.
People from most parts of the world are simply not used to chowing down on marinated
eel, or swallowing spoonfuls of jellied meat for that matter. And it goes without
saying that a lot of people would flinch before attempting anything called 'blood
sausage.' Most Estonians, on the other hand, wouldn't think twice before digging
into these home-spun delicacies
Cuisine background
Estonian cuisine has been influenced over the centuries by the traditions of
more powerful neighbours (don’t forget that Danes, Germans, Swedes, Poles
and Russians have taken turns ruling parts of the country) but the main characteristic
of the local fare is its peasant origin. Estonians were for the most part country
folk before the last century, and since food was scarce, they had to be inventive
in preserving and stretching what little meat they had on hand.
Later, when urbanisation took hold, the kinds of fried chops and potatoes common
in the rest of Europe became the standard. This is what you’re likely
to see on the lunch menu at the local pub these days, along with a side of cabbage.
Thankfully though, the more uniquely Estonian recipes are still prepared in
many families, and served in a number of restaurants around Tallinn.
Traditional favourites
Marineeritud angerjas
Marinated eel, served cold. A true Estonian favourite.
Keel hernestega
Tongue served with horseradish
Sült
Boiled pork in jelly. The jelly is made by boiling the pork bones, sometimes
hooves and heads. It's often made in large batches, so many Estonian families
have stories of jars and jars of solidifying sult all over the house
Verivorst
Blood and barley sausage, similar to what the English diplomatically call 'black
pudding' due to its colour. In Estonia, this is traditional Christmas food,
and is served with a red, berry jam.
Mulgikapsad
Sauerkraut stew with pork, served with boiled potatoes.
Silgusoust
Baltic sprats with bacon in sourcream.
Karask
A desert cake-like barley bread.
Kama
It's a thick desert drink made with sour milk (keefir), and a mixture of ground
grains - rye, oat barley, and pea flour.
Kali
A non-alcoholic beverage. Referred to as "the Estonian Coca-Cola,"
Kali is a kind of unfermented beer. It's sweet and has a very light fizz to
it.